Sonia Rykiel SS16: Because the night

The house is empty and I’m watching the Sonia Rykiel show because I hear it is sequin on sequin on sequin. And it is, eventually.

The show starts with bursts of colour (funny considering it is taking place in what looks like the basement of an old factory – a glamorous one though THANK YOU. Ok I’m joking, I hear it’s in their flagship… But it is dark spare a glitter covered floor) and I am impressed but not impressed. Although, it’s probably more because I could never pull of those colour combos. Far too 80s for my boring ass. But I do love the black sandals. I’m sure they’re sparkling.

As expected the show goes on and I’m trying to split my concentration between the shoes and the two-woman DJ set that’s taking place in the corner. I do some research and come up with very little. I am assuming they’re French and I really like them.

The looks keep coming and they’re getting better in my opinion. I’m particularly loving the hair, the pom poms attached to the wrist and the colour matching of the shoes with the outfit. I take a moment to appreciate the seventh look that consists of a blue and red crocheted jumper over a mini skirt. More crochet and what looks like tweed with denim and I’m wondering where the sequins are.

I’m still waiting when the camouflage arrives and I think the early 2000s may be happening. I never thought in a million years I’d see camouflage on the catwalk again but alas I am wrong and no doubt have missed it a million times on many others. But nonetheless, I do like it. It first appears in a one-shoulder ruffled dress with pink glitter high heels and it’s looking stellar.

The black fringe dress that follows is the first introduction to the fur (faux I hope!) and it gets better. The music starts to change too and it’s then I realise how much I really like the band. Live music though, who doesn’t like it?

The fur keeps coming, as do the glorious shoes which I’m now starting to think are actually metallic. Leandra Medine keeps talking about the ‘tops over pants’ look and I notice it here in a black ensemble. I like it! I also like the hair and blue eye make-up.

The fur gets bigger, the camouflage grows and we see the return of colour blocking in green, red and blue stoles paired with flowing dresses – one off-shoulder, the other in orange with ruffled shoulders. The models have resorted to carrying the stoles rather than wearing them (because who needs to wear it anyway right?) and just like that, we go from a bright yellow fur sweeping the floor from the hand of one woman to the pom pom clad wrist of another. And the sequins have arrived. Hello. Hello shimmer, hello light of my life, hello oiseaux de nuit (or as I am told, ‘person who likes to go out at night’… something like that?).

De Libran’s collection is apparently a nod to the night crawlers, the club frequenters, the party girls who, frankly, am everything I am not. But I can still appreciate the reference. And the clothes.

The remainder of the show dazzles and I am done by the time my favourite look of the collection appears: a drop-waist blouse in burnt orange sequins with black high-waisted ankle grazers and strappy glittering heels. Thank you, Julie De Libran.

[Images from]


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