By Terri Cluckie
Cramming a week full of shows into one post is ambitious so in this week’s round up I have picked my favourites from the tail-end of London and the majority from Milan.
Burberry kicked off my Monday and I watched online while pretending I’d been invited like I usually do. My Mum watched with me from the couch and it was all sweet. Jake Bugg is excellent live, I’ve been told that before. I liked the collection but thought the model casting was severely un-diverse. Not unique to Burberry I know, but it’s a serious conversation that actually needs to happen in the higher echelons. Look out for our post on runway diversity in the next coming weeks.
On a lighter note, Victoria Beckham said her latest collection for Victoria, Victoria Beckham, was for “girls who want to have fun… But not too much fun”. Woaw-kay there, Vicky. I get it. The collection was saturated with florals on either dark navy or black or serious colour; jumpers and miniskirts in what looks like really thick fabrics; chunky gingham prints in trouser suits; block colours in mint, purple and orange; cropped aviators and jackets with chunky knitted collars. I guess you could say it was guarded fun… but not too guarded.
Ashish was anything but guarded fun. It was a runway show in the form of an afro-wig topped rainbow. It was fun, everything you couldn’t wear to the office and it made me smile. Poppy Okotcha opened the show in a baby pink sequinned top-cropped trousers combo. The colours graduated through each look in jumpsuits, strappy dresses, trouser suits and slogan-bearing jackets.
I must have an inner magpie because I’m only using Gucci for their sparkles. Their runway show was an eclectic mix of colours, something I love about Gucci. It’s fun and playful but in a mature way, ya know? Definitely clothes a grown woman would wear but not ones that are drowned in darkness. I like that. That makes me want to creep out from the shadows and actually wear something other than grey. But back to the collection. It was quite a mix. One minute we’re in full pink, the next we’re librarian brown. The glasses were cute; the multi-coloured tulle skirt beautiful; the black and white retro trouser suit a throwback. The critics loved it and I did too; something for everyone – literally.
Marni, Marni, Marni. I went to school with a person who had the surname Marni and I was always jealous of him. The collection was so grown-up, unlike myself in high school, but that’s an Italian thing it seems. The arch cuts in tops, capes and cropped jackets are very translatable into the everyday (I’m thinking Zara will do a good job in picking this up for the high street). Balloon sleeves on jackets and shirts, even dresses, add an elegant and understated touch.
It’s funny. The first look I seen from the Jil Sander collection was a silver metallic dress on Instagram. It’s amazing. It’s my favourite piece from the collection, but apart from that and a pink metallic knee-length dress, it’s really the only thing I liked. This made me think about the power of a single image and the power of social media. Had I viewed the collection on vogue.co.uk alone, I think I would have passed up on writing about the show entirely but because of that one dress scrolling by, I stopped and decided to pay attention. In the sea of colour that currently swamps Milan, the show was blacker than ever which is actually perhaps a refreshment… Am I just moaning because I don’t have glitter or colour to coo over?
[Photo credits: vogue.co.uk]