Sunday round up: A London and Milan mash up

By Terri Cluckie

Cramming a week full of shows into one post is ambitious so in this week’s round up I have picked my favourites from the tail-end of London and the majority from Milan.

Burberry kicked off my Monday and I watched online while pretending I’d been invited like I usually do. My Mum watched with me from the couch and it was all sweet. Jake Bugg is excellent live, I’ve been told that before. I liked the collection but thought the model casting was severely un-diverse. Not unique to Burberry I know, but it’s a serious conversation that actually needs to happen in the higher echelons. Look out for our post on runway diversity in the next coming weeks.

On a lighter note, Victoria Beckham said her latest collection for Victoria, Victoria Beckham, was for “girls who want to have fun… But not too much fun”. Woaw-kay there, Vicky. I get it. The collection was saturated with florals on either dark navy or black or serious colour; jumpers and miniskirts in what looks like really thick fabrics; chunky gingham prints in trouser suits; block colours in mint, purple and orange; cropped aviators and jackets with chunky knitted collars. I guess you could say it was guarded fun… but not too guarded.

Ashish was anything but guarded fun. It was a runway show in the form of an afro-wig topped rainbow. It was fun, everything you couldn’t wear to the office and it made me smile. Poppy Okotcha opened the show in a baby pink sequinned top-cropped trousers combo. The colours graduated through each look in jumpsuits, strappy dresses, trouser suits and slogan-bearing jackets.

I must have an inner magpie because I’m only using Gucci for their sparkles. Their runway show was an eclectic mix of colours, something I love about Gucci. It’s fun and playful but in a mature way, ya know? Definitely clothes a grown woman would wear but not ones that are drowned in darkness. I like that. That makes me want to creep out from the shadows and actually wear something other than grey. But back to the collection. It was quite a mix. One minute we’re in full pink, the next we’re librarian brown. The glasses were cute; the multi-coloured tulle skirt beautiful; the black and white retro trouser suit a throwback. The critics loved it and I did too; something for everyone – literally.

Marni, Marni, Marni. I went to school with a person who had the surname Marni and I was always jealous of him. The collection was so grown-up, unlike myself in high school, but that’s an Italian thing it seems. The arch cuts in tops, capes and cropped jackets are very translatable into the everyday (I’m thinking Zara will do a good job in picking this up for the high street). Balloon sleeves on jackets and shirts, even dresses, add an elegant and understated touch.

It’s funny. The first look I seen from the Jil Sander collection was a silver metallic dress on Instagram. It’s amazing. It’s my favourite piece from the collection, but apart from that and a pink metallic knee-length dress, it’s really the only thing I liked. This made me think about the power of a single image and the power of social media. Had I viewed the collection on vogue.co.uk alone, I think I would have passed up on writing about the show entirely but because of that one dress scrolling by, I stopped and decided to pay attention. In the sea of colour that currently swamps Milan, the show was blacker than ever which is actually perhaps a refreshment… Am I just moaning because I don’t have glitter or colour to coo over?

Read last week’s round up here.

[Photo credits: vogue.co.uk]

In which I ramble my way through the Fendi AW16 show

By Terri Cluckie

I’m not sure what it is that I love so much about Fendi’s collections. This season I’m thinking it’s the literal darkness paired with wavy layers and playful colours; the bold aspects of each look and how over-saturated the colours are.

The stripes and furs are so playful. The thigh high boots may not be something I could ever pull off but being over-joyed by a pair of shoes is what can be so special about fashion.

I notice mini-bags are making quite a big splash in the autumn/ winter shows this season as one model carries one delicately in her hand (she’s over thinking this – she really only needs her pinky). Fendi’s are multi-coloured and actually look like something my nine-year old self might carry. They also look like a strappy vest I just gave away to a local charity shop. I loved it but the room in my suitcase didn’t allow for non-essentials.

In look 26 the model walks the runway without a handbag or accessory and I notice how strange it looks. I’m pretty sure every other model has carried something with them but this one doesn’t. It’s a prompt to how much I like the bags with their woven leather and striped features.

The eye make-up again looks playful. It’s a nod to many of their past collections. I’m yet to see a close-up but the bold licks of colour stand out.

Look 29 passes as I do a double take at how gorgeous the model looks in the cool blue knee-high boots. Three models follow and they’re not carrying handbags – maybe they don’t all have an accessory in this show. That still feels odd but the looks are very cute so I’ll move on.

Does anyone remember when Scotland went through a phase of filling 300ml Irn Bru bottles with boiled water and watching them shrink? Or was that just a thing my family did? Either way the second mini bag to come out reminds me of that craze. It’s black and looks like a shrunken Birkin. On second looks it is definitely not a shrunken Birkin (How Dare I?) but it’s definitely a shrunken something.

A few metallic looks pass, as do more furs, and I’m left thinking about how glamorous the models look. I mean, duh that’s the point but I’m really going to have to make a lot more effort if I want to try anything I’ve seen this fashion month.

[Photo credits: vogue.co.uk]

Sunday round-up: Mary Katrantzou, TOPSHOP UNIQUE and Mulberry AW16

I’ve spent my Sunday in PJs, wrapped up on the couch with my dog while catching up on shows. I’ve managed to watch five live so far (all hail the internet!) and I’m feeling lucky.

First up for me today is Mary Katrantzou and her western meets princess-inspired collection. I’m not usually a fan of loud motifs but her fire-flamed coats and star-spangled everything are a neat way of livening up collared dresses and knee-length tulle skirts.

David Koma is next and although I appreciate navy, I’m not totally swooning.

Cathy Horyn referred to the industry as being cut into three “completely separate businesses”: “the celebrity lines, the trendy-casual stuff that consumes most of the space (and slowly kills you with its banality), and the elite brands like Oscar de la Renta.” I’m assuming TOPSHOP UNIQUE would fall under her ‘trendy-casual stuff’ so should I feel guilty for liking it? This collection has my full attention. I knew it would. It always does. I move on from the guilt swiftly. I’m too entranced to be held down by it.

I’m not entirely sure you can go wrong with shearling aviator bombers and leopard print anyway, and when a collection is so wearable, does that even matter?

The cropped aviator and draw-waist leggings with mid-calf boots remind me of what I might wear if I was old enough to star in the Dumb and Dumber Aspen scenes and the mid-length navy coat with black fur collar is just an everything-my-life-is-missing thrown-in-your-face type memo.

Mini skirts, houndstooth, wide-leg trousers, I like them all. You know what I also like? The white boots, white faux(?!)-fur cropped jacket and black sheer dresses. Lots of autumnal colours thrown in, like camel, purple and olive green. The eye liner is smeared and the fringes licked to the side. It is “the highs and lows of British style” according to Geoffrey Finch, Topshop’s creative design consultant.

Mulberry makes a grand comeback. It is their first catwalk show since 2013 when then-CEO, Emma Hill, left and has now been replaced by creative director, Johnny Coca. The Telegraph tells me he was previously in charge of handbags at Celine so he is literally God of Handbags.

The collection is full of everything I want and everything I can’t have, including new sure-to-be it-bag, the Clifton. Fishers eat your heart out at the fishnet dresses and bags that flash yellows and pinks and blues underneath. I know for sure now that I need to invest in some sort of textured jacket and most definitely buy some chunky buckle shoes and a new bag.

[Photo credits: http://www.vogue.co.uk]

Marc Jacobs AW16: Goth for all

I’m wondering just how exactly I might be able to translate Marc Jacobs’ latest runway collection into outfits that I can acceptably wear in my humble town of No Creativity. I know, I know. High fashion is not meant for the every day but those balloon jackets and pussybows are massive and turning them into a wearable version for myself is a task.

The show was a nod to goth looks from all different periods (and I’ll throw in my own period here of the 2007-ish era) and swung a dark and gothic mood on the closing night of New York Fashion Week.

In case you haven’t heard, Kendall Jenner and Lady Gaga walked for the show and ohmygosh they were almost unrecognisable. The dark (black?) lips and crayoned in eyes would make anybody unrecognisable and actually remind me of a girl I went to high school with who still insists on painting the circumference of her eye black with eyeliner. I can’t even remember what she used to look like…

There were six eyeliner looks in total, some with matching dark lips, some without. All eyebrows were erased, a look I actually like for some reason even if I could never pull it off because my eyebrows are one of three things I actually like about myself.

The 20s finger-waved hair was sharp. I liked it (again though wondering which family party I have planned this year that I could pull it off at?). And model Mari Agony’s fresh buzz cut which sported drawn on waves using NARS’ eyeliner and Eye Paint finished off with glitter was one for the Memory Bank.

The show featured shimmering metallics, leopard print, grommited leather and sheer floor-length gowns. I was a particular fan of the deep forest green feathers and flashes of candy pink, just like Wang. I love pink and I hope it stays forever.

The thick laced boots and striped tights (perhaps socks?) reminded me of my own emo days while the draped furs and low-slung fabrics reminded me of 20s glamour. Leandra Medine says “we are all Marc Jacobs’ goth”, and I feel she is right. Goth itself transcends the decades and we’ve all played with our own version of it at some point in our lives.

The closing of New York was both a nod to trends and legends-gone-by while carrying us forward in a fresh direction – perhaps the perfect way to end one city and start another.

[Images from http://www.vogue.co.uk and http://www.intothegloss.com]